Pics of Kanha National Park

enchanting pilgrimage (Wari) of Pandharpur

It is the time for the much awaited Pandharpur Wari which is made famous by its Warkaris. A time for the saffron colored triangular flags to be waved and capture everyone’s heart with their melodious voices, entrancing music and bhajans. This year like every year on the occasion of Ashadi Ekadashi on 9^th July 2014, lakhs of pilgrims from across Maharashtra will undertake the pilgrimage to Pandharpur. Chants of "Jai Hari Vitthala" and "Gyanoba Mauli Tukaram" will resonate in the temple town of Pandharpur with the culmination of the 23-day of the "wari".

There is no definite information available on the origins of this "wari" tradition, which is a pilgrimage on foot to Pandharpur. However, there are some references about Vitthalpant, Saint Dnyaneshwar's father joining the Wari to visit Pandharpur in the month of Aashaad & Kartik. So it can be inferred that the state of Maharashtra has seen this tradition being followed since the last 800 years. 

In the Wari, the participant Warkaris are undaunted by natural obstacles like rain or night and hardships of the walk. This is because of their faith and conviction that they would be able to meet their Lord (Vitthal) since MAULI is by their side, caring and guiding them through this pilgrimage. While on the WARI some faithful’s do not consume even a drop of water during the day. These people carry a palkhi amidst them which is lead by horses that are rendered in service by Shitole Sarkar. They travel for eleven days on foot from Ankli near Belgaum (Karnataka) on Jestha Ekadashi to reach Alandi. Besides tradition, faith guides the horses’ procession from Ankli to Alandi. As the horses traverse across villages in Karnataka and Maharashtra to reach Alandi, it carries along with it the respects and regards of hundreds of thousands of people (who might not be able to make it to the WARI) to be entrusted to MAULI who would convey the same to Lord Vitthal when they meet at Pandharpur where the WARI completes its journey.

This pilgrimage presents a perfect amalgamation of people of all castes, creed, class and age. These pilgrims (warkaris) are welcomed and served in all the places they pass. People provide them with food, water, boarding and medical facilities. The local villagers draw rangolis in front of their houses to welcome the palkhis.

On their way, the pilgrims play musical instruments like veenas, mridungas, dholkis and chiplis. The warkaris also play the traditional folk dance "fugdi" with their infectious enthusiasm and energy. With the saffron colored triangular 'paatakas' (flags) in hands and tulsi leaves on their heads the pilgrims present a perfect picture of the Bhakti tradition of Maharashtra. During its entire course, there are four community ablutions of the Padukas – twice on the banks of the river Neera on the way to and from Pandharpur and twice on the banks of the Chandrabhaga in Pandharpur. The later are conducted on Aashaadhi Ekadashi day and the following full moon day. Twice during the sojourn there are AARTIs performed enroute in the morning – once at Thorlya Paduka (place near Charholi) and once in Pune at the Shinde Chhatri (memorial of Shri Mahadaji Shinde).

These devout pilgrims will get the reward for their long journey when they witness the "maha puja" of Lord Vitthala and his concert Rukhmini (Vithoba Rakumai) in Pandharpur on the Ashadi Ekadashi day. Their unparalleled love for Vithoba-Rakumai is clearly seen in their behavior. Observing their devotion and the sincerity with which they portray their prayers is sure to move you to the core. In addition to the elders in the family you can see scores of youngsters showing an equal amount of passion and enthusiasm as they chant and praise lord Vitthala and ask Mauli to guide them. It is one breathtaking pilgrimage which can easily have you addicted and getting involved in their processions by chanting or playing fugdi with them. The whole procession seems to be teaming with pulsating energy and warm friendly looks. You could never feel out of place when you are here amidst these devotees of Vitthala.

The growl of Munna at Kanha National Park

Well I could count myself amongst the lucky few to have had a firsthand experience of watching the majestic and highly celebrated tiger of Kanha National Park.

We took the Jabalpur express (garib rath) from Bandra terminus in Mumbai till Jabalpur. It was an overnight journey and we reached Jabalpur station by 7:00 am. We had pre-booked cars which took us to a hotel in Bhedaghat. The place is a famous tourist attraction for its naturally occurring and imposing Marble- Rocks on the Narmada River and the Dhuandhar waterfall. What few people don’t know about this place is its important historical background. It is a treasure trove for the fossils of dinosaur eggs. Another impressive and a fun activity would be to take the boat ride in the Narmada River at Bhedaghat. For those who understand hindi do not miss the commentary of the guide during the boat ride. For those who don’t understand the language, don’t worry the marble rock structures are sure to mesmerize you. (this visit takes hardly half a day so don’t miss it)

After lunch we left for Kanha National Park and arrived at the resort in time for evening tea. The resort in which we were staying was the Wild Chalet Resort. It’s a charming place with individual huts having a modern décor on the banks of a river. We were warmly welcomed and shown to our rooms. Post snacks we had an acclimatizing session on wildlife and we strolled down to the river bank. Here we got to hear the crystal clear calls of the nightjars and of the birds going back to their roosts. The session was really helpful as most of the people were going to go for a safari for the first time. The normal dos and donts were mentioned which had to be followed to the T. We called it an early day and retired to our rooms post dinner so that we could cope with our exhaustion and be prepared for the following morning. A little information about the park is that there are 4 major zones in Kanha national park namely Kanha, Kisli, Sarahi and Mukki.

We woke up in the wee hours of morning got ready had tea and biscuits. Our safaris arrived to pick us up at 5:00 am sharp. We were all excited and bursting with energy as it was our first safari. All were in high spirits despite the early wake-up. We arrived at the gates where we had to get our ids checked by the authority and wait in queue to get our guide. Once the gates opened we proceeded to our zone which was the Sarahi zone. Well I would like to note a fact here that we were told not to expect a tiger in the first safari we should keep our eyes open for the birds and other mammals. So we were busy training our eyes on the birds and trying to put names to their voices. We got some pretty pictures. We happened to come across a huge herd of the Indian Guar mistakenly called as Bison. Their sheer size was enough to make us feel afraid. We were taking in the sights and smells of the morning in the beautiful forest. We saw herds of the famous Barasingha which is restricted to Kanha National Park then we reached the patrolling guard’s tower inside the forest where we could get off stretch a bit and get refreshed.

We then started back to the gates and suddenly we were confronted with the loud kileee kileee kileee kileee of the stork billed kingfisher. It is a large bird with impressive colors which are hard to miss. It took us a few minutes to realize that it was trying to shoo away another handsome raptor the changeable hawk-eagle. We were really happy with these sightings only to come across the mightily shy and really adorable barking deer a little further down the trail. We moved ahead and we were talking in excited whispers when suddenly we heard something like a roar and a growl. It was repeated again, so we reversed our jeep and low and behold to our right were two huge sloth bears fighting over territory. It was my first time to have come across a sloth bear during a safari in my last four years of travel. So I was one happy traveler, and to get to see two of them fight was as good a bargain as possible. After the bears retreated back we had to hurry to the gates in order to be avoiding penalty. We were all excitedly talking in hushed tones and showing pictures to each other and showing a few Mahua trees whose flowers are a delicacy for the sloth bears. When suddenly our driver just slammed the breaks right in our path sat Munna (MU1). Sighting a tiger in the wild is an experience in itself, something which cannot be expressed but only felt.

         

Yet here he was this majestic creature sitting like a king in the center of the road with no care in the world. After a few minutes he got up and walked into the grassland as we overtook him. He then turned around gave a hair raising growl and walked back to the road. His walk was captivating and demanded everyone’s attention. The sheer fact that he was just merely a few feet away was enchantingly scary. His muscular stature and his signature spot marks on his head which spell “CAT” are something that one cannot miss. This tiger is lovingly called as Munna and is very famous and well photographed male tiger of Kanha. After walking on the road like royalty he then headed into the woods and disappeared, but his sighting was something which has been etched into my memory forever. We were undoubtedly lucky to have sightings of the Sloth Bear and the Tiger in our very first safari. Our introduction to Kanha National Park was simply unrealistic and absolutely fruitful. 

Call of the Tiger in Tadoba

A haven for wildlife enthusiasts and naturalists, the Tadoba Andhari Tiger Reserve is perched at a height of 200-350m, to the south of Nagpur. The park covers an area of 625 sq kilometers and is a Southern Tropical Dry Deciduous Forest in Maharashtra. It is definitely India’s most exciting and best protected Tiger Reserve. In order to catch a glimpse of the mighty Big Cat one can take the available gypsy safari or take your own vehicles inside. There are also 2 hour long elephant safaris’ which one can opt for. Explore the wild and keep your eyes open for wildlife such as tigers, panthers, sloth bears, hyenas, jackals, wild dogs, bison, barking deer, nil gai, sambar deer, and chital. Chance on the Teliya Lake safari which is the best birding spot and be alert to grasp the exciting opportunity to spot the impressive wildlife. The park is open from 6:00am-10:30am and from 3:00pm-5:30pm.

Shrine of Taru: Enchantingly built under the canopy of a large tree on the pristine shore of Tadoba lake is the Shrine of Taru. It is held in high regard by the adivasis which organize a well attended fair between December and January, during the month of Pushya Maasa according to the Hindu calendar. Clay artifacts of animals exhibited near the idols represent adivasi art and have not changed over the years.

Panchdhara: Take a walk to this exclusive water hole which is 5kms from the Kolara Gate. This walk will undoubtedly leave you spell bound.

Jamunzora: It is also a 5km worthwhile walk from the Moharli gate, with a mélange of grassland and thick jungles endowing the right touch of nature at its best.

Jamunbudi: It is a small hill which is a popular trek route tried out by most visitors to the Park. The terrain within the Park offers wonderful opportunities for Walking & Trekking. A massive spread of hilly tracts which are not so steep can be easily charted through moderate to dense forests. Walks & Nature Trails within the forest is another adventurous activity visitors can indulge in depending upon the availability of their time.

Irai Lake: Located near Moharli gate the beautiful Irai Lake is sure to captivate you. The nearest village is Bhamdeli village. Don’t forget to carry your binoculars as it is a prime birding spot.

Tiger temple: Give your salutations to the king of the forest- the Tiger!! Lovingly known as Vaghoba by the locals, the temple is located in the buffer area. Tourists can visit this charming little temple and give their obeisances while enjoying nature.

Anandwan: Located in Warora with the nearest rail head being Wardhac is Anandvan, it is recommended that you go see the house of the Miracle Worker, Baba Amte. The name Anandwan literally means ‘Forest Of Joy’ which is a self-contained ashram. It is a community rehabilitation centre for leprosy patients and the disabled from downtrodden sections of society. It was founded in 1948 by noted social activist, Baba Amte. One can learn and cultivate an understanding and respect for the people living here.

Revive history by trekking to these 3 impressive forts, which are of a tribal origin:

Manikgad: Named Manikgad after the patron deity of the Mana Nagas – Manikadevi, is an ancient hill fort 507m above sea level in Chandrapur district. Also called as Gadchandur, it is built of large black stones by the Naga kings in the 9 CE would have been a formidable fort in its time. The fort though in ruins is frequently visited by wild animals that live in the vicinity like panthers and boars. Several monuments of historical importance are also present in the area. The fort is built of large black stones and it would have been a formidable fort in its time. Rampart walls of the fort enclose a valley which has ruins of old buildings and store-houses. The southern bastion along with its supporting wall has collapsed however the gateway is still intact.

Ballalpur fort: Situated in Chandrapur (old Chanda) district, Ballalpur now known for its coal mines and paper mills, is 16kms south-east of Chandrapur. The district headquarters, Ballalpur was the capital of King Khandakya Ballalshah during 1437-62 AD. The land fort is built on the eastern banks of the Wardha River having a square shape with walls and bastions. There are still two intact gates set at right angles to each other with a small postern gate on the river side.

Chandrapur fort: This fort was also established by Khandakya Ballalshah in the Chandrapur district. It is an extensive land fort with high walls and bastions, built by Ballal kings. The fort had at its four cardinal points, four impressive gates. The original buildings have vanished, but the gates and a portion of the wall still exists. Now an industrial town, Chandrapur is also famous for its old Mahakali temple.

Trouble free visit to Rhino-land at Porbitora Wildlife Sanctuary

Very few of you must know about the Porbitora Wildlife Sanctuary. It is located about 40 km from Guwahati, in Mayong which has often been called India's magic capital. With a history that is bound to scare the daylights out of believers and make others gape in wonder, the peaceful ambience somehow looks like a cloak of mystery. There is an eerie silence that envelopes this little village, but it is a welcomed silence. The morning light finds this silence replaced by the tweeting of a thousands birds. The best time to visit this avian paradise is during the onset of winter from December- February. It is during this time that many migratory birds along with a few threatened species are easily spotted here. Spotting of the one-horned Rhino is also very easy. The chances of spotting these beauties are easily a 10 fold more than at Kaziranga National Park.


Today Mayong's fascinating stories are attracting tourists, prompting the government to develop this place as a tourist hotspot. Wildlife enthusiasts can just take this short ride from Guwahati and stay at Porbitora Wildlife Sanctuary. I chanced to stay at a lovely resort called Maibong. One will not miss it as it lays just a heartbeat away from the entry point to the sanctuary. Be prepared to be pampered by the traditional Assamese hospitality which is always at your beck and call. One can book a jeep safari at any point of the day from 7:00 to 15:00 hrs. Please take into consideration that the sunrises early and sets around 16:30 hrs. One can blink away their sleep while just paying attention to their wakeup call. If you are staying at Maibong you could walk down to an impressive hanging bridge. The beauty lies in the Pipal tree on the side of the pond which houses crimson barbets, blue throated barbets and a few other birds.

Enjoy the elephant safari which is open only from 7:00-8:00. Brace yourselves to get a first hand view of the mighty one-horned Rhino or a herd of Wild Buffalos all grazing freely amidst domesticated cattle. There is also a chance of viewing the wild boar. Also keep your eyes trained to the sky as there is a possibility of spotting a majestic bird of prey like the Osprey or serpent eagle and many more. At Porbitora Wildlife Sanctuary there are many water birds that you will easily come across.

An interesting fact about this place is that it is a grazing land that has been turned into a Sanctuary on the suggestion of the locals. There is also an impressive island created in the center of the Sanctuary which acts as a safe ground for the animals during the monsoon. The entire land gets flooded by the mighty Brahmaputra that flows in all its glory and might during the monsoons. If you get a chance you could also arrange to catch a sunset on the white sandy beaches of the mightily handsome Brahmaputra. Finally you can call it a day while you hear the birds settling in for the night. Explore this wildlife paradise which is known only to a few. Be captivated by the untamed beauty of the land with all its simplicity and its various colors.