enchanting pilgrimage (Wari) of Pandharpur

It is the time for the much awaited Pandharpur Wari which is made famous by its Warkaris. A time for the saffron colored triangular flags to be waved and capture everyone’s heart with their melodious voices, entrancing music and bhajans. This year like every year on the occasion of Ashadi Ekadashi on 9^th July 2014, lakhs of pilgrims from across Maharashtra will undertake the pilgrimage to Pandharpur. Chants of "Jai Hari Vitthala" and "Gyanoba Mauli Tukaram" will resonate in the temple town of Pandharpur with the culmination of the 23-day of the "wari".

There is no definite information available on the origins of this "wari" tradition, which is a pilgrimage on foot to Pandharpur. However, there are some references about Vitthalpant, Saint Dnyaneshwar's father joining the Wari to visit Pandharpur in the month of Aashaad & Kartik. So it can be inferred that the state of Maharashtra has seen this tradition being followed since the last 800 years. 

In the Wari, the participant Warkaris are undaunted by natural obstacles like rain or night and hardships of the walk. This is because of their faith and conviction that they would be able to meet their Lord (Vitthal) since MAULI is by their side, caring and guiding them through this pilgrimage. While on the WARI some faithful’s do not consume even a drop of water during the day. These people carry a palkhi amidst them which is lead by horses that are rendered in service by Shitole Sarkar. They travel for eleven days on foot from Ankli near Belgaum (Karnataka) on Jestha Ekadashi to reach Alandi. Besides tradition, faith guides the horses’ procession from Ankli to Alandi. As the horses traverse across villages in Karnataka and Maharashtra to reach Alandi, it carries along with it the respects and regards of hundreds of thousands of people (who might not be able to make it to the WARI) to be entrusted to MAULI who would convey the same to Lord Vitthal when they meet at Pandharpur where the WARI completes its journey.

This pilgrimage presents a perfect amalgamation of people of all castes, creed, class and age. These pilgrims (warkaris) are welcomed and served in all the places they pass. People provide them with food, water, boarding and medical facilities. The local villagers draw rangolis in front of their houses to welcome the palkhis.

On their way, the pilgrims play musical instruments like veenas, mridungas, dholkis and chiplis. The warkaris also play the traditional folk dance "fugdi" with their infectious enthusiasm and energy. With the saffron colored triangular 'paatakas' (flags) in hands and tulsi leaves on their heads the pilgrims present a perfect picture of the Bhakti tradition of Maharashtra. During its entire course, there are four community ablutions of the Padukas – twice on the banks of the river Neera on the way to and from Pandharpur and twice on the banks of the Chandrabhaga in Pandharpur. The later are conducted on Aashaadhi Ekadashi day and the following full moon day. Twice during the sojourn there are AARTIs performed enroute in the morning – once at Thorlya Paduka (place near Charholi) and once in Pune at the Shinde Chhatri (memorial of Shri Mahadaji Shinde).

These devout pilgrims will get the reward for their long journey when they witness the "maha puja" of Lord Vitthala and his concert Rukhmini (Vithoba Rakumai) in Pandharpur on the Ashadi Ekadashi day. Their unparalleled love for Vithoba-Rakumai is clearly seen in their behavior. Observing their devotion and the sincerity with which they portray their prayers is sure to move you to the core. In addition to the elders in the family you can see scores of youngsters showing an equal amount of passion and enthusiasm as they chant and praise lord Vitthala and ask Mauli to guide them. It is one breathtaking pilgrimage which can easily have you addicted and getting involved in their processions by chanting or playing fugdi with them. The whole procession seems to be teaming with pulsating energy and warm friendly looks. You could never feel out of place when you are here amidst these devotees of Vitthala.